Thursday, 16 August 2012

Residents demand division of Okavango

07 August, 2012
SHAKAWE - Okavango residents have suggested that their constituency be divided into two with the Okavango River being the boundary line.
Speaking at the Delimitation Commission consultation meeting in Shakawe recently, residents said it was time the constituency was divided into two looking at the challenges of distance.
They suggested that a new constituency that should be called Okavango East should start at the Namibia/Botswana border line through Mohembo East and include Seshokora settlement. The constituency would have an estimated population of 13 916 people.
Another new constituency - Okavango West should start from the Mohembo West border and include Etsha 1 and Nxau-Nxau village which would result in an estimated population of 23 506 people.
Currently, the Okavango constituency has a population of over 35 000.
Furthermore, they requested that Etsha 1 up to Etsha 13 villages should be relocated from the Ngami constituency back to Okavango to enable the carving of the two parliamentary constituencies.
One of the speakers, Mr Bafenyang Ngaka said Etsha villages were transferred to Ngami with a total population of over 10 000 people during the 2002 delimitation commission, saying it was disappointing because the people of Etsha were from the same tribe and had one representative at Ntlo Ya Dikgosi.
Turning to Jao, Jedibe and Xaqua flats settlements, Mr Ngaka said most of the people who were working in lodges in the Okavango Delta were from Okavango and should automatically fall under the Okavango constituency not Ngami as it was currently the case.
Another speaker, Mr Ketlogetswe Disho urged the commission not to focus only on the required number of 36 000 people per constituency but instead also look at the challenges in the constituency such as the size, lack of roads, poor communication and the fact that the area MP was unable to visit all his electorates as expected.
Moreover, Mr Disho said, the Okavango constituency was lagging behind in developments.
He said that the constituency had flood plains, swamps and rivers, which occupied a wide geographic location and its physical characteristics gave it a remote area status characterised by deep heavy sands, which made travelling difficult. Currently, the Okavango constituency consists of 37 villages including settlements. BOPA  

Gcwihaba Caves

 In the northwest corner of Botswana several related groups of dolomite hills present a striking contrast to the surrounding sandveld. The Aha hills straddle the Botswana/Namibia border just north of the village Xai-Xai. Some 35km east of the village, Gcwihaba Valley with its fossil river features a cluster of 6 low-lying dolomite hills. Further 19km southwest of the Gcwihaba Caves lies Koanaka hills, with three hills. The Fascinating aspect is that all these hills have caves which are collectively referred to as the Gcwihaba Caves.
The Gcwihaba Caves have been part of the Kalahari landscape for at least the entire Pleistocene epoch, some 2 million years ago. The cave contains sediments useful for the regional paleoclimatic reconstruction. This was found out during the first scientific research undertaken by Cooke and Ballieul (1974).This cave system has two large (more than 5m wide) cavernous entrances, which have allowed access of a large number of bats and windblown sand deep into the cave. This has effectively buried much of the cave with sediment of up to at least 7m (Cooke, 1975).Adjacent to this cave is a recently discovered cave named !Wa Doum. This has only been researched on a few occasions. The cave's most important feature is the limited air exchange with surrounding atmosphere as it was more or less totally sealed off from the outside world until researchers entered it for the first time in October 1992. These caves have a very rich variety of secondary cave formations such as stalactites and stalagmites, but also many more unusual formations such as helictites, soda straws and cave pearls, totally untouched by man. The cave has been resealed after each visit by researchers to safeguard the interior air composition. The current exploration project has delineated a number of caves of which three have been confirmed. In addition, a lot of bones (both fossilized and modern) as well as archaeological finds have been unveiled through excavation programmes as part of the ongoing exploration work.
Due to the isolated nature of these dolomite hills with its caves, a special flora and fauna has developed. Some Aloe species and the Namaqua Fig, Ficus cordata, are only found in these hills. Of particular interest is the latter as it appears to be dependent on its roots access to the more humid cave space below. These roots create beautiful curtains inside the caves. This tree in its turn is the home of the Ruepels Parrot (Poicephalus ruepelli) which is also restricted to this area of Botswana. The area has quite a variety of bird species and also big mammals such as elephant, but perhaps scientifically more important biodiversity-wise is the invertebrate fauna surrounding as well as inside the caves.

Justification of Outstanding Universal Value

 Gcwihaba Caves have a diversity of cave formations found within the six cave systems which display a manifestation of exceptional natural beauty comprising massive stalactites, stalagmites, dripstones and columns/pillars as well as an array of spectacular micro-formations of helictites, straws, some of which seem to have defied the force of gravity which normally dictates the speleothems to be precipitated in a vertical position. The caves occurring in the three hills of Koanaka, the Bone Cave and the Blue Cave, contain a type of breccia which has very high densities of fossils. This is the richest cave fossil deposit in Botswana and possibly the richest in Southern Africa.  The Caves are unique in a sense that they occur in a desert environment and contain a detailed record of the evolution of the Kalahari Environment for the entire Plio-pleistocene epoch.
Criteria
The Gcwihaba Caves satisfy criteria vii and viii for natural properties
vii.          contain superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty and aesthetic importance;
Although the formation of these caves are deciphered to have formed from the same physical and chemical interactions of climatic and hydrogeological activities, the  diversity of cave formations found within the six cave systems display a manifestation of exceptional natural beauty comprising massive stalactites, stalagmites, dripstones and columns/pillars as well as an array of spectacular micro-formations of helictites, straws, some of which seem to have defied the force of gravity which normally dictates the speleothems to be precipitated in a vertical position.
viii.         be outstanding examples representing major stages of earth's history, including the record of life, significant on-going geological processes in the development of landforms, or significant geomorphic or physiographic features;
 The episodic spatiotemporal distribution of wet and arid  conditions-formed cave deposits are a reflection of significant dynamic geological processes which have operated through out the Plio-pleistocene epochs leading to well preserved paleo-climatic record of the world renowned Kalahari Desert.  These caves contain a type of breccia which has very high densities of fossils. This is the richest cave fossil deposit in Botswana and possibly in Southern Africa. The presence of the Kalahari windblown sand in the caves is a direct indicator of clastic sediment provenance from the surrounding stabilized sand dunes whereas the adjacent massive pans are indicators of the periods of prolonged wetter conditions when cave mouths served as spring source points.

Satements of authenticity and/or integrity

 Integrity
Gcwihaba and the surrounding caves occur in an area which can be described as one of the remotest and true wilderness locale of this country where nature dictates its terms without interference from man. The area where these caves occur and their surrounding plains is massive covering an area of about 2500 kmwhich is only occupied by a small settlement with inhabitants who have harmoniously interacted with caves for a long time. The caves lie within a protected area with a community controlled natural resources utilization plan and is currently being converted from controlled hunting area to cultural and photographic tourism. All the caves have been listed as national monuments under the Monuments and Relics Act of 2001, which is administered by the National Museum and Monuments of the Republic of Botswana. The main Gcwihaba Cave has a management plan which is currently being revised to include all other caves and surrounding resources.

Comparison with other similar properties

 Gcwihaba Cave Systems compares well with the Australian Naracoorte Caves National Park. Naracoorte Caves National Park is part of the World Heritage site comprising two non-contiguous Australian fossil mammal sites. The 305-hectare Naracoorte site includes the caves and the series of stranded coastal dune ridges parallel to the present South Australian coastline. The Australian fossil mammal sites were inscribed on the World Heritage list in 1994 as outstanding examples representing major stages of the earth's evolutionary history, and as outstanding examples representing significant ongoing ecological and biological evolution. Some of the caves are set aside for scientific research or for protection of the cave and its contents just like is the case here in Botswana at Gcwihaba Caves.
The Sterkfontein Caves - about 50 km from Johannesburg - is the site of some of the most important discoveries concerning the evolution of man and have been declared a World Heritage Site. Although Gcwihaba Caves do not contain important hominid fossil remains, all deposits are still pristine with several interesting dripstone formations, while those of the Sterkfontein cave's spectacular stalactites and stalagmites were removed or damaged by early limestone-mining activities. In addition, Gcwihaba Caves are unique in a sense that they occur in a desert environment and contain a detailed record of the evolution of the Kalahari Environment in the Plio-pleistocene epoch.

www.unesco.org

10 FARINI EXPEDITION 2010 - Tsodilo hills


Botswana: The mystery of the Tsodilo Hills

© Anton Crone | 18 March, 2012 00:16

Anton Crone visits the Tsodilo Hills whose walls tell the stories of thousands of years of civilisation

As we squeezed between the boulders leading to the cave, we saw the enormous head of the rock python. It loomed well within striking distance and we imagined the ancient people filled with awe for this mammoth beast.
They would surely have recognised the voice of the python as it echoed in the cave and perhaps bowed in submission as they edged closer, hoisting their spears - not in attack, but in reverence, for there they would apply themselves to sharpening their spear heads and cutting tools along its hard, scaly flank.
An old friend, Bruce, and I were in Tsodilo Hills, Botswana, in late December. It was one of the hottest times of the year but relief came in thunder clouds. It was the beginning of the rainy season and already the scrub and low trees of the surrounding plains were lush and green.
After we turned off the main road between Sepupa and Shakawe, a 40km gravel road drew us to the hills that dominated the plains like sentinels. From the entrance to this world heritage site, reaching the main campsite at the foot of the hills meant driving our Landcruiser through mud that would have bogged down a normal car. But we imagined in the dry season it would be easily accessible. As it was, we shared the main campsite with only a Kiwi couple.
The campsite was neat and well spread out with ablutions and a museum recounting the history of the hills and their inhabitants, the San and the Hambukushu.
Remarkably, camping is free, with about eight individual sites under trees. There were a few more remote campsites dotted around the hills without any facilities, but for our first few nights we decided this would be our base.
Through the leaves, one could see the towering rocks that formed the western face of Female hill, one of three prominent hills, the others being the pyramidal Male hill (the tallest, to the south) and Child hill (the smallest, to the north). As suggested, we hired a guide the next day for R200 and set off early to explore Female hill.
The hills have been visited and occupied by people for over 100000 years. Evidence of an ancient lake bed at the foot of the hills tells a story of abundance. Rock paintings depicting animals and people form the greatest concentration of rock art in the world numbering more than 3500 individual pieces.
Behind dense foliage, one finds small mines carved into the rock for specularite stone, which was used for adornment. W ater has left long trails of white, blue and purple down the sides of the rocks, and a spring holding water throughout the year is believed to be guarded by a python against all predators with paws - unless they ask permission to drink. T oday, people visit this site to perform spiritual rituals.
The hills are an enduring book, the stone pages recounting thousands of years of civilisation. One can read the story of their rituals and their reverence for the animals by which they survived. Paintings of eland, giraffe, rhino and kudu abound, as well as geometric patterns and dancing people, the most fascinating being the "dance of the penises" depicting men with engorged phalluses almost as long as they are tall. They say this depiction was inspired by a trance-like state in which the men perceived the immensity of their virility.
We decided to explore by ourselves on the second day, to climb a deep gully that cut into the east face of Female hill. We were on the hunt for undiscovered paintings, even though every inch of the hills must have been explored.
Our excitement was piqued when we found two panels of art hidden behind dense foliage: a snake-like rune of circles dotted in places as if denoting orbiting planets, and a lone giraffe beside rows of lines that could have symbolised rain or long grass. After this, we entered the bottom of the gully full of optimism. We climbed the cool rocks and searched , coming across a few shallow mines.
Clambering over huge boulders and stretching our limbs to attain finger or foot holds, it became clear that the smaller ancients would have struggled up here, explaining perhaps the lack of art, but the vista over the plains as we gained height was our reward, the heated landscape peppered with trees stretching endlessly to the East, inviting rain clouds that were forming above the saturated Okavango. As we climbed further we came across a lone flame lily and we studied it for a while, its colour and crown-like petals a wonderful respite.
Reaching the top of Female hill, we drifted apart and explored on our own. It is possible to get lost up there as the trees and grass hide the trails and the vast, featureless hillcrest makes it difficult to find any landmarks. A myth goes that a man wanders here as a lost ghost, luring people to follow him to safety, whereupon they too are lost. We eventually regrouped by calling out to one another in this lonely, disorientating place.
In the campsite, afternoons were spent dozing in the heat, followed by more exploring in the evenings. After sunset, we would eat and spend a quiet night sipping whisky and talking. All was quiet except for our musings, the footfalls of kudus and the call of francolins and barn owls. A spotted eagle owl alighted nearby, a fresh mouse in its talons and, under the glow of our flashlight, went about devouring the creature.
Caves and overhangs where people may have sheltered and performed rituals are common among the hills. Their shade and cool rocks were welcoming in the heat and on Male hill, beneath one vast overhang called White Paintings Shelter, we rested for a while and admired the wall, decorated with an elephant. The white bull is surrounded by many geometric designs, along with animals and human figures, some of which are on horses. Sifting through the sand, we found shards of ancient pottery with geometric decorations.
The rock python in Rhino cave, hidden in the northern side of Female hill, is one of the most intriguing stories of the hills and we urged our guide to take us there. It was a long trek around the hill's base to reach the cave, so we took the Landcruiser as far as we could along a sandy track and then hiked the rest of the way.
The "python" is in fact a 6m-long section of rock protruding from the cave wall opposite a white painting of a rhino. The snake's side is indented with cupules and long grooves, scraped away with spearheads and cutting tools, which were then ritually deposited here as a sacrifice to the great python.
This, in essence, what Sheila Coulson, professor of archaeology from the university of Trømso, Norway, proposed in 2006 after digging beneath the snake-like form. There she found over 13000 artefacts - stone spearheads and cutting tools that she deduced had been used in rituals because many of them had been burnt. She thought they had been sacrificed to the python, a creature the San revered. believing that mankind descended from the snake. They also believed it created the arid stream beds as it circled the hills in an endless search for water.
Coulson's discovery sparked controversy as she claimed the cupules and artefacts dated back 70000 years, making this the oldest site of human ritual in the world. Many archeologists were sceptical of her theory and, as well as disputing the dates, questioned the rock's resemblance to a snake.
Coulson went on to discover a chamber behind this protruding monolith. The worn sides of the passage leading to this chamber suggest that people passed through there. This, she supposed, was where a shaman hid during the rituals. "He would have had a good view of the inside of the cave while remaining hidden himself," she said. "When he spoke from his hiding place, it could have seemed as if the voice came from the snake itself. The shaman would have been able to control everything."
We eventually found the entrance to the chamber. Bruce clambered up and vanished, leaving the guide and me alone in the cave. Soon a loud, demonic clicking litany echoed against the walls surrounding us - Bruce's mock Khoisan. Of course, we found it amusing but, as his voice filled the cave, I realised the sway the shaman might have held over the superstitious people.
Driving back to the camp along the sandy track, the guide spotted a rock python in the grass. Bruce clambered out to get a glimpse. The python suddenly rushed across the track at him, a 2.5m-long beast, lunging and baring the full horror of its mouth. Bruce leapt out of the way and the python slithered by, vanishing into the long grass - along with any doubt about Coulson's theory.
On our last night, we moved to a more remote campsite, not far from the place we had encountered the snake. We took in the sunset from the red shoulder of Female hill and made our way back down to the camp in the dimming light. The air was still that night, Orion dominated the sky, and the only sounds were the barn owls, and a faint rustle in the grass. In sleep, we dreamt of wandering ghosts and pythons.
Getting there:
By road: Tsodilo Hills is 390km from Maun. From Maun, proceed along the A3 to Sehithwa. From there take the A35 to Shakawe. The turn-off is on the left, 25km after Sepupa. From there it is another 40km on dirt road. A 4x4 is advisable in the wet season and will be needed year round to access all the other camps around the hills as the tracks are deep in sand. (4x4s and camping equipment can be hired in Maun.)
By air: Air Botswana flies daily to Maun from OR Tambo. Tsodilo Hills has a small airstrip. Planes can be chartered from Maun.
When to go
The wet season, December to March, is less popular but this means you almost have the place to yourself. The dry season is pleasant but nights are cold from June to August.
Where to stay
Camping is free at all campsites. There are no lodges in the area. Water, ablutions and showers can be found at the main campsite.
Guides generally ask 150 Pula (about R157) for a half-day trek. You can explore on your own but it is best to take a guidebook.
What to take:
Everything. It is advisable to stock up in Maun. There are two agriculture control points between Maun and Tsodilo Hills but you can buy meat in Shakawe, 32km north of the Tsodilo turn-off.

Professor criticises law, policy makers engaged in tourism

by Calistus Bosaletswe
09-08-2012

Flooding in the Okavango Delta has left most of the buffalo fence, which separates buffalos from cattle herds, submerged in water and posing a risk of Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD) outbreak in Ngamiland.

Okavango Research Institute’s Professor Joseph Mbaiwa views the flooding that has submerged the buffalo fence as an additional burden to farmers who have been hard hit by FMD in the past.

Mbaiwa explained in an interview that farmers will always be on the losing side because the fences that were separating the buffalo herds from cattle have been inefficient even when there was no flooding.

According to Mbaiwa, the flooding will be a burden to existing inefficient remedies, such as buffalo fence, which was not adequately maintained.

He pointed out that the FMD will continue to be a menace to farmers if policy and lawmakers continue to be part of investors in the tourism sector.

He dismissed that a remedy will never come forward for the benefit of famers in Ngamiland who rely on farming for their livelihood if the “Big Shots” are still taking part in tourism.  He stated that “Big Shot” interests supersede the farmers’ interests who have scars of the FMD outbreak that swept cattle in Ngamiland.

“As long as the government has taken a decision to promote the tourism industry, farmers will always be on the losing side. They are no prospects of farmers in Ngamiland to sell their cattle in the European market if the government effort to curb the outbreak of FMD in the area is still ineffective. Farming will continue to have ups and downs,” added Mbaiwa.

He said that buffalo herds which are carriers of FMD were always crossing the fence, resulting in cattle contracting FMD.

He stated that the flooding is expected to put more burdens on farmers in Ngamiland.

Quizzed on why farmers were not selling their cattle and investing in the tourism sector, Mbaiwa noted that there are no opportunities for farmers in the tourism sector.

He explained that prime areas in the Okavango have already been occupied.

“Those companies have leased concession areas for years. What is left is only marginal areas that are not attractive to tourists. Farmers will not make it even when they sell their cattle and try to invest in the tourism sector,” he said.

The Minister of Agriculture, Christian De Graaff stated in an interview that mass flooding had submerged the buffalo fence which separates buffalos from cattle herds in the delta.

De Graaff stated that the situation heightens the possibility of FMD outbreak, adding that even veterinary officers are unable to access some areas to maintain the fences because of flooding.

The Minister noted that the government intends to vaccinate cattle in the area three times to deter the outbreak of FMD in Ngamiland.

He said that the vaccination is expected to address a possibility of outbreak because buffalos are able to move freely after the buffalo fence was submerged.

Sunday Standard online: 09/08/2012

Botswana Safari - Stuck in Guma Part 2

Botswana Safari - Stuck in Guma Part 1

Gumare VHC choir--Okavango pilot official launch (14 Feb 2009)

Muyaki mati ti yera


BOCODOL promises Maun residents university
 
MAUN: Botswana College of Distance and Open Learning (BOCODOL) state-of-art centre in Maun will offer degree and masters programmes though tele-education, once BOCODOL turns into a fully fledged university, BOCODOL board chairman, Abel Modungwa has said.

 
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Speaking during a cocktail party organised for community leaders in Maun, Modungwa said the programmes will be offered in partnership with reputable international universities.
He said the government has approved a suggestion by Maun residents that the centre be named 'Thamalakane Lifelong Learning Centre (TLLC).'
"We shall be bringing to this centre, education and training programmes of varying levels which hitherto could not be directly accessed by residents of the north-west," he noted.
"As part of bridging the educational divide in Botswana through distance education, BOCODOL built the state-of-art centre which is located in Disaneng in Maun. The centre will be turned into one of the campuses of the envisaged Open University," he said.
Modungwa said government's decision to turn BOCODOL into an open university will give impetus to the human capital development. He said the institution has adopted a four-year implementation strategy (2012-2016) to guide the transformation.
"Given the special and critical nature of the strategy, the board decided to come to Maun on a retreat away from our regular offices in Gaborone to critically examine and hopefully internalise the strategy as our transformation roadmap," he explained.
Modungwa buttressed BOCODOL's national mandate as well as its vision to be the 'institution of choice for flexible and lifelong learning."
He said the institution continues to adapt itself to meaningfully contribute towards the Vision 2016 targets.
Giving the vote of thanks, Kgosi Charles Letsholathebe encouraged the Maun community to take advantage of the programmes offered by BOCODOL to advance their education.
He said gone are the days when North West people were cut off from institutions of higher learning by geographic separateness from the rest of the country.  He, however, said residents can only benefit if they enroll in the institution in large numbers.

Mmegi online: 16/08/2012

Pelicans under threat at Lake Ngami - report
 
MAUN: Birds Botswana is calling on the government to declare Lake Ngami a bird sanctuary. The call is made in a report compiled by Pete Hancock of Birds Botswana, which says there is a threat to the breeding of birds in the resurgent Lake Ngami, due to destruction of their breeding nests by commercial fishermen at the lake.

 
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The report states that some pelicans have abandoned their nests with un-hatched eggs, due to the disturbance of their breeding by fishermen and boaters from Maun.  It reveals that the pelicans build floating vegetation breeding nests on the lake, which have been destroyed, forcing them to abandon breeding.
According to Birds Botswana, approximately more than 5,000 protected pelicans are resident on the lake. The report says the pelicans consume approximately five tons of fish per day. It says one of the requirements of suitable breeding sites for pelicans is that it must have a lot of fish.
However, some of these birds, like the great white pelican, are ground nesters and breed on improvised floating nests.
It brings to attention the fact that pelican's incubation takes approximately 30-84 days and the nests therefore need protection from disturbance and mammalian predators.
Lake Ngami is said to be one of the only five sites in the whole of southern Africa meeting all the requisites of a birds breeding site.
In Botswana, the other is Sua Pan, which is part of the greater Makgadikgadi Pans but the site does not have the same amount of fish as Lake Ngami, which forces the birds to fly as far as the Okavango Delta in search of fish.
Lake Ngami, which started flooding recently after years of dryness, has transformed into a lucrative commercial fishing hub.
Swarms of fishermen travel from all corners of Botswana to engage in a thriving commercial fishing business that generates thousands of Pula per week.
Among the community fishing the lake waters include poverty stricken women and refugees from the Dukwi camp.
The report also calls for the declaration of Lake Ngami to be a protected birds breeding sanctuary where commercial fishing should be undertaken in a controlled manner.
It further calls for funding for the preparation of a management plan of the lake, to ensure a rational protection of the resources, for conservation and birds viewing tourism.

Mmegi online: 16/08/2012